

1. The Loose-Fill Method – Flexible & Affordable
Materials:
Wool: Natural, breathable, moisture-resistant, and effective at temperature regulation. A great eco-friendly option that can still perform even when damp.
Fibreglass wool: Widely available and budget-friendly, but handle with care – it's itchy and irritating without gloves and a mask.
Rock wool: Heavier than fibreglass, but highly effective at both thermal and acoustic insulation. Also fire-resistant, making it a safe choice.
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Installation:
Start by sealing off window frames and doors to prevent airborne fibres and dust from settling in. Then fill every cavity in your walls, ceiling, and floor structure with your chosen material. Be sure to include a vapour barrier to avoid moisture penetration and mould. For floors, some builders also add grooved mats to direct moisture to existing drainage points.
Pros:
Ideal for tight and irregular spaces
Excellent thermal and soundproofing properties
Affordable and widely accessible
Cons:
Can absorb moisture if not sealed properly
Requires full PPE to avoid skin and lung irritation
Settles over time if loosely packed
2. The Board Method – Rigid & Reliable
Materials:
XPS boards: Lightweight, moisture-resistant, and easy to cut – commonly used for floors and flat wall sections.
Polyurethane foam boards: Offers superior insulation per thickness but can be harder to cut cleanly and usually costs more.
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Installation:
Measure each panel area, cut the boards accordingly, and use adhesive or screws to fix them in place. Seal all joints with aluminium foil tape or expanding foam. For best results, combine with soft insulation in awkward corners.
Pros:
Very efficient in terms of thermal insulation (high R-value)
Creates flat, solid surfaces for furniture mounting
Relatively easy for confident DIYers
Cons:
Not flexible – challenging to install in curved sections
May off-gas – ensure proper ventilation
Can rattle loose if not tightly fixed




Time for Action
Let’s Get Practical with Your Van Insulation




6. Ventilation
Crucial for long-term comfort and mould prevention
Install a roof vent (manual or powered) and/or window deflectors
Plan intake and exhaust placement to ensure airflow throughout the van
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7. Interior Finish
Choose your finish material (wood slats, carpet lining, etc.) and cut to fit
Install with screws into battens or adhesive depending on insulation method
Add cabinets and fittings afterwards, ensuring they don’t compress the insulation
8. Test and Adjust
Run your hand along walls and ceiling on a cold day to spot temperature differences
Use a thermal camera to find gaps
Patch, tape or fill weak spots before final cladding goes on
Our Campervan Insulation Strategy
When we built our own campervan, we wanted a method that balanced insulation performance with ease of installation and low risk of moisture buildup. Here’s what we chose:
Floor:
1 cm of XPS between floor ribs
Topped with 2 cm full layer XPS
Vapour barrier, plywood sheets, and heavy-duty vinyl flooring on top
Walls and Roof:
Thermo-foil layered with closed-cell foam
Sprayed adhesive held everything in place before cladding
Focused on minimising ceiling thickness to keep headroom
Windows:
DIY window covers made from insulation foil and fabric
Velcro attached, rollable, and surprisingly effective in winter


Final Thoughts – Insulation Is the Foundation of Comfort
Whether you're chasing winter sun or parking up in a snowy forest, proper insulation makes vanlife 10x more comfortable.
There’s no single "perfect" method – just the one that best suits your build, your tools, and your budget. Make it safe, make it practical, and most importantly – make it yours.
Now grab your tools, throw on a playlist, and start insulating your dream van. The road (and warmth) awaits!